A word of warning, it is very easy to get lost in Thamel.
Nepal is poor, even poorer than I thought; and Kathmandu is dusty and smelly. Our first night there we were walking down the street and all the lights went out, plunging the street into darkness, most of the cars and motorbikes have headlights, but the bicycles don’t, so walking down the street became even more dangerous. After that first night we took a wind up torch with us every evening. Kathmandu has a system in place called load sharing. This is a polite way of saying that not everyone can have electricity at the same time; so sometimes our hostel has no electricity for 12 hours. The big hotels and more expensive restaurants have their own generators, the rest of us have to make do with candles and torches.
The temples are crumbling, Durbar square is supposed to be a great place to visit but it is full of people trying to take money off you, it just isn’t possible to walk around in peace. Going out of the centre to the other sites is better, but Thamel just felt safer and more free.